May 25, 2014 § 4 Comments
Andalusia is undeniably one of Spain’s most diverse, stunning, and enthralling region. I knew that. Yet it didn’t prepare me for Ronda.
This city in Malaga sits on a plateau of a massive rock outcrop, creating a dramatic terrain and a seriously picturesque vista.
However, its charm extends to more than just the landscape;
the cuisine, linked to a deep history, was a revelation, a real delight with more than a handful of fine restaurants and tapas bar to indulge in.
One of the most enjoyable ways to understand Andalusian food is to follow the crowds into a typical bar and try their tapas,
savored with a glass of vino tinto. Did you know that the region produces the best wines in Spain?
And the ham! The Iberico ham from Jabugo in Huelga is known to be (and I can attest to that) Spain’s best ham.
Tapas at Doña Pepa
Ten days in Morocco have induced (in us) an immense appetite for pork and where else do we go? Into a restaurant that has this on display.
Restaurante de Doña Pepa, right around the Plaza del Socorro, called out to us.
We entered and never left—our server, Javier, never gave us a chance. With his help, we ordered and devoured plate after plate of lovely Andalusian dishes (mostly pork oriented).
Our first Andalusian meal may not have been a bar hopping experience,
but every plate that came out spelled happiness, cravings satisfied and more. Then after all that, Javier delighted us with a sampling of a plateful of desserts,
ending a long day of traveling with happy spirits despite the gloomy weather.
The Breakfast at Hotel Colon
Waking up to breakfast of sublimely simple tostada con tomate y aceite (toast with crushed tomato and olive oil) is almost haunting. With just a pinch of salt, the sweetness of both tomatoes and olive oil marries into something magical. This seemingly simple, bland breakfast transforms into a delectably complex feast in the mouth. Haunting, I tell ya… haunting!
The family run, centrally located Hotel Colon seemed to be a go-to of the locals.
Halfway through breakfast, the coffee shop filled up quickly with people tucked in their favorite corner, browsing through the daily, leisurely enjoying their coffee and breakfast.
Good coffee and wondrous pastries draw crowds into this unpretentious eatery the whole day.
Rabo de Toro and Bullfighting
Ronda is where modern bullfighting began but because it is tucked away in the mountains, bullfighting season in this city is intermittent.
But that does not stop its people from celebrating the sport. It is known as the home to bullfight after all. Many establishments in this town serve superb Rabo de Toro (tail of the bull)—an Andalusian medieval dish using tails of corrida-slaughtered bulls.
Restaurante Pedro Romero, opposite the bullring, is where you want to have your first taste of the celebrated oxtail stew.
Turning out classic rondeño dishes, this restaurant, named after the legendary bullfighter from the Romero family, was a fine prelude to a profusion of Andalusian meals to come.