Where to Eat in Luang Prabang: L’Elephant
August 9, 2012 § Leave a comment
“There is no love sincerer than the love of food.” — George Bernard Shaw
Have you ever been instantly charmed by a place, its food, that all you want is to share it with everyone that matters to you? Luang Prabang has that effect on me that I was back in no time with Anton in tow.
Set in the confluence of two rivers that almost surround the town, Luang Prabang is a medley of traditional wooden houses and European architecture, one of those cities oozing with charm. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the pressures of mass tourism development have been held at bay, which lends to its allure.
Along with its culture and tradition, one of its greatest attractions is its food. Restaurants line Sisavangvong Road and the roads along the two rivers.
Options include traditional Lao dishes to fine French cooking. A remnant of the country’s colonial era – centuries of occupation and colonial rule by the French, Luang Prabang boasts of some good French restaurants. And this, my friends, is one major reason for a revisit. Four years is long enough.
I went back to relish once again a satisfying gastronomic delight. L’Elephant is a long-standing restaurant pioneering a culinary renaissance in Luang Prabang, serving mainly French food although menu includes local options too. It is housed in a typical 1960’s colonial building, a stone’s throw away from the Mekong. Twirling fans, high ceiling, and wooden chairs look like a set straight out of “Casablanca”. Wonderful ambience paired with good food leaves a lasting impression and so there we had our first leisurely meal.
The owners, French-Lao Yannick and Frenchman Gilles, first opened L’Elephant Restaurant in 1999 when Yannick’s grandmother proposed that he come back from France and open a business in her building. Tourism was on the rise then so he agreed. What was originally supposed to be a guesthouse became a restaurant instead. Three more restaurants around Luang Prabang followed after.
They use fresh local produce grown in their own garden, which is probably why most of what comes out of their kitchen are remarkably delicious.
We had for our starter Carrots from their garden with Orange, Lime and Fresh Basil Vinaigrette. Most refreshing.
Escargots de Bourgogne – French snails baked in parsley and garlic butter. So simple yet it possesses such amazing flavors – a favorite.
For our main: Roasted Boneless Quail stuffed with Luang Prabang mushrooms for Anton. Superb if you like strong flavors.
Fillet of Mekong Perch in Coriander Sauce for me. Laos being land locked and has only rivers flowing through, river fish are almost always on menus. Although they tend to taste muddy, this dish has a clean taste, the coriander sauce adding a nice citrus-herb tang.
An indulgence no doubt as this could probably be the most expensive meal we had in Laos but the splurge was worth it.
L’Elephant Restaurant Ban Vat Nong, Luang Prabang, Lao P.D.R For reservations: +856 71 252-482Avocado and Feta
August 1, 2012 § 1 Comment
I am obsessed with avocados at the moment. Partly because it is in season and I see them everywhere but mostly because I am loving its über creaminess on almost everything. It makes for a wonderful dessert when combined with condensed milk and have been greatly enjoying it for decades now. Some experimenting led me to a new discovery. Buttery avocado, sharp Feta cheese and peppery Arugula mingle well together. Finish off with some sliced fresh button mushrooms and honey-mustard dressing and they end up very good friends.
I’ve been occupied lately and I’m afraid I’ve neglected this blog a bit. But I’ve been working up a storm in my kitchen despite my absence here. In between work and travelling, I’ve been entertaining on the side so may this whet your appetite, as salads always do, for what’s to come.
Arugula, Avocado and Feta Salad
What You Need:
For the Vinaigrette:
- 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
- 3 tablespoons Apple Cider Vinegar
- ½ tablespoon honey
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 5 tablespoons olive oil
For the Salad
- Baby arugula
- 1 medium avocado, cut into ½-inch cubes
- ½ cup crumbled Greek feta cheese marinated in oil
- 4-5 pieces fresh button mushrooms, sliced
What You Do:
In a small bowl, combine mustard, vinegar, honey and salt. Whisk to blend well. Add olive oil and whisk vigorously to emulsify. Adjust according to your taste.
Mix salad ingredients together and toss with vinaigrette. Makes 3-4 serving.
Note: I like using baby arugula but if this is hard to find, the regular ones are good too. Feta cheese can be substituted with goat cheese. Left over roast chicken torn into bite-sized pieces goes well with the salad, as is tuna from the can.
Only in the Philippines
June 27, 2012 § 6 Comments
Or is it? This is about a dish I recently made and instantly fell in love with.
When I saw mustard greens (mustasa in my part of the world) in my favorite Saturday market last week, I dropped everything, went for it and got myself a bundle. I love that peppery tasting vegetable to pieces. Excited, I stormed my little library of ideas on what I can do with it… then I stumbled on Mr. MM’s recipe.
I first tasted this vegetable when I was a teenager. My grandmother used to make a Chinese version of the pickled mustasa, the name of which I loosely translate as “salty vegetable” – not exactly love at first bite but more of an acquired taste. I have yet to get my hands on that recipe, for now let me share this with you.
This month’s Kulinarya challenge (hosted by Cherrie and Tina) was a daunting “Only in the Philippines” theme, featuring uniquely Filipino dishes. I wasn’t planning on joining this month until this beautiful recipe came along. Why do I think it daunting? Because the dish that came to mind was Kare-Kare and that to me is a major production and can’t consider making in the near future with my busy schedule. Anywhow, I am posting albeit late, a dish for this challenge. I figured that this could be uniquely Filipino because the ingredients used are “very” Filipino. I call it Esaladang Mustasa at Lechon sa Bagoong. Stay with me here because this is one heck of a side salad. Ingredients and flavors scream Pinoy through and through.
Mustard Salads are not as popular in Manila as it is in the province, often eaten with fried dishes. If you like strong flavors then this dish is definitely worth a try.
Ensaladang Mustasa at Lechon sa Bagoong
(adapted from Market Manila’s Mustasa Salad with Bagoong and Kalamansi Dressing)
What You’ll Need:
- Mustard Greens
- Lechon, shredded and fried till crisp
For the Dressing:
- 10-15 Calamansi (in this recipe, I used 4-5 pieces of dayap)
- A dallop of Bagoong Alamang or Fine Shrimp Paste
- Chili flakes
- Patis or Fish sauce
- Freshly ground pepper
What You Do:
- Wash mustard greens carefully; wrap in paper-towel to dry and store in the ref for 2-3 hours to keep crispness and freshness.
- Chop them about 1/3 of an inch and put in a salad bowl.
- Make the dressing by squeezing the calamansi; strain out seeds.
- Add bagoong, siling labuyo, a dew dash of patis.
- Top with shredded lechon meat and season with freshly ground pepper.
For more inspiring recipes, visit other KCC members listed below:
Palitaw from Day of Chef by Day
Avocado Shake from Malou of Skip To Malou
Pinais na Isda from Iska of Iskandals.com
Grilled Panga ng Lapu-Lapu from Erwin of Iskandals.com
Tapsilog from Cherrie of Sweet Cherrie Pie
Kutsinta from Tina of Pinay In Texas Cooking Corner
Kare-kare from Adora of Adora’s Box
Kulawong Talong from Elizabeth of Asian In America
Kalamay na Pinipig from Jun of Jun-blog
What to Eat in Laos: Laotian BBQ
June 19, 2012 § 5 Comments
In a sidewalk eatery, a man brings to our table hot coals on a brazier where he affixes a dome shape griddle similar but not quite the ones used for Korean BBQ.
This one has an annulus around the bottom of the griddle, where he poured some broth.
He then came out with a plate of thinly sliced meat of beef, pork and chicken. And a basket of vegetables, tofu, mushrooms and some glass noodles.
It is a cross between shabu-shabu and Korean BBQ – the veggies, noodles et al. goes into the soup while meats are grilled on the dome-shaped griddle. The meat I dip into a sauce that I customize to my liking – on a base of peanut sauce, I add some chopped garlic, a bit of fresh chilies and a squeeze of lime juice – beautiful complement to the grilled meats.
The key ingredient, me thinks, is the pork fat provided to grease the griddle as the meat cooks. This plus all the drippings of the meat goes straight to the soup, making one glorious soup by the end of the meal.
This BBQ meal known locally as Sin Dat is best devoured on a cool evening as the heat of the hot coals can zap the energy out of you on a hot day. Although I extremely enjoyed both occasions (once in the middle of summer and more recently in January, the coolest month in Laos), I realized that the hot coals, not to mention the hot, flavorful soup can soothe ones senses on a cold, rainy evening.
One can’t possibly call a trip to Laos complete without experiencing this wonderful Laotian BBQ. Make sure not to miss this.
Satisfaction guaranteed. 🙂
Bed Weather Soup
June 14, 2012 § Leave a comment
Well good-bye summer and hello rainy days. It rained most of the day the other day and on a holiday to boot. We stayed home and the cool “bed” weather called for comfort food. What’s more comforting on a rainy day than hot chicken soup? Not any kind of chicken soup mind you. I was craving for my childhood favorite, Tinolang Manok, a staple in many dinner tables in my neck of the woods, including ours. A bowl of this light ginger based soup never fails to make me feel all warm and fuzzy. So I trooped to the supermarket next door for some essential ingredients.
Tinola is a Tagalog or Cebuano term for soup based dish and is traditionally cooked with chicken. Unlike the chicken soup of the west, this soup uses ginger and lemon grass to flavor. Core ingredients would be chicken (but of course), ginger (lots and lots of it), green papaya, lemon grass and this new super food called malunggay, scientifically known as Moringa. We sometimes alternate it with green pepper leaves – both have the peppery kick.
You may serve it as a starter course but it is perfect as a main dish, me thinks. I like my rice soaking with the soup almost like congee and each spoonful of chicken, green papaya and the rice is absolutely soothing.
Tinolang Manok (adapted from Namit Gid! Cookbook)
What You’ll Need:
- 1 kilo chicken, cut into serving pieces
- 1 tbsp. cooking oil
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 medium-sized onion, sliced
- 1 thumb-sized ginger, sliced
- water or rice washings to cover
- 1 stalk tanglad (lemongrass), bruised
- green papaya, seeded and cut into wedges
- patis or fish sauce
- crushed pepper
- malunggay leaves
What you do:
- Heat cooking oil and sauté garlic, onion and ginger. Add chicken pieces and brown slightly.
- Add water or rice washings and tanglad. Season with fish sauce and pepper.
- Cover and let it simmer. When chicken is half-cooked, add papaya.
- Cover and let it simmer until chicken and papaya are tender.*
- Just before serving, remove tanglad and add malunggay leaves.
- Cook for 2 more minutes. Serve hot.
* To remove the fat, let it cool until the oil floats and remove as much from the surface.
Where to Eat in Vientiane
June 4, 2012 § 1 Comment
Credits: Quickpage by Shabby Mis Jenn’s Design: Kayla’s Tin Album
Armed only with a list of restaurants and a map, we walked the streets of Vientiane one January morning not quite aimlessly but with very loose plans. We inquired at Papaya Spa on their treatments (we might want a massage later in the day), appreciated beautiful art pieces at a gallery (which we can’t afford space-wise and pocket-wise), admired some beautiful houses/guesthouses along the way… then we spotted 2 of the restaurants at the top of our list right beside each other. Divine providence, I say, so we pushed our luck and actually got a table where reservations are usually required.
Makphet
Makphet is a charitable establishment that trains street children to acquire marketable skills – to cook and to wait tables. Friends International, which also operates in Phnom Penh, teaches them the skills of the restaurant trade in trying to bring a sustainable improvement in their lives. A good cause and more importantly, excellent modern Lao dishes is definitely a formula for success.
The server-students who enthusiastically served and replied to our queries charmed us so that we went for their recommendations. Red Hibiscus & Lime Breeze caught my eye. We call it gumamela where I come from. The tangy, fruity drink is wonderful to quench off the spiciness of the dishes.
Sharing borders with Thailand, Vietnam, Burma, China and Cambodia, Lao food has strongly influenced (and vise versa) the neighboring cuisine of Thailand and Vietnam.
Their Grilled Beef Fillet wrapped in betel leaves is their take on a typical Vietnamese dish. Seasoned beef wrapped in betel leaves and then grilled. The slight peppery aroma of the betel leaves is a wonderful complement to the beef.
Next to arrive was a Crispy Fried Mekong Fish they call Ancient Fish. It went really well with the Sweet and Sour Tamarind sauce (as fried fish always do) and the side of Green Mango Salad that came with the dish.
A winner in my books, the kaffir leaves and the side salad set it apart from all the fried fish dishes I’ve tasted.
Have you ever tasted sticky rice not as a dessert but just as rice? A staple in Laotian cuisine – everything tastes so much better with it. I’m actually missing it now.
The hibiscus (a favorite of the day, I swear) sorbet and coconut ice cream was the way to go to clean the palate after a medley of strong flavors. Topped with delicious meringue, this baby had sweet, sour, cool and crunchy goodness all in one. Love.
Reservations are recommended or like us, be there early and you might get lucky if all you need is a corner table for 2.
L’Adresse Cuisine by Tinay
Being a former French colony, the legacy is apparent in Laos such that French restaurants are common and popular. L’Adresse de Tinay next door is the new kid on the block, so to speak. The French-Lao chef Tinay and French wife Delphine Inthavong are the couple behind this casual French bistro. When we walked over to make our reservations for dinner, Delphine asked us to pick our table.
We were so looking forward to indulge in French food after a tiring afternoon. We walked in at exactly 7pm; we were shown to our table.
Unbeknownst to us, this young gentleman in black who was taking our order was actually Chef Tinay who trained in France and came back home to open his restaurant.
Goat Cheese Rolls: Tinay’s Specialty has 7 crispy Goat Cheese rolls with Sun-dried Tomatoes, Tapenade, Pesto, Thyme, Honey, Cherry Confitures, and Sweet Chili Peppers
He has a seasonal menu, which might include his signature goat cheese rolls.
The restaurant is well-lit and has a modern yet welcoming feel; his seasonal menu is written on a huge blackboard on the wall. A small room houses a selection of wines. The seating outside is more casual and dark with only the light from inside and some candles lighting each table.
We were wowed from start to finish. I thought that the bread with the tomato sauce dip was clever – simple yet divine.
We were ecstatic to see escargot on the menu – it has 6 snails on 3 bruschettas with scrambled eggs and topped with parsley cream.
I had Grandma Lydie’s Special cassoulet with home-made duck confit. The cassoulet is made up of haricot beans, a superb tasting Toulouse sausage and simmered in a sweet garlic cream. Thank you Grandma Lydie, your cassoulet was sublime.
The rack of lamb was juicy, tender, crusty and perfectly pink. Herbs were not overpowering but rather complemented this beautiful piece of fatty goodness.
Need I say more?
And for dessert, we shared a crème brulee with vanilla from Madagascar. I’m not sure now if both crème brulee and ice cream had vanilla from Madagascar. Whichever the case, it was heavenly.
Anyone who serves Limoncello will always have a place in my heart and this one in particular came with the bill with their compliments– homemade by Delphine. Beautiful restaurant, lovely personal service, excellent food, reasonable prices, a nice wine selection – I’m willing to bet that this neighborhood French bistro will go a long way.
Suffice to say that our day in Vientiane went really well particularly in the food department. Only on our first day and we were already wowed.
Makphet Parallel to Sethathirat Rd, Chanthabouly District (behind Wat Ong Teu) Opens Mon-Sat 11am-2pm and 6pm-9pm only +856 (21) 260-586 L’Adresse de Tinay Parallel to Sethathirat Rd, Chanthabouly District (behind Wat Ong Teu) +856 (20) 5691-3434Party Favorite
May 21, 2012 § 6 Comments
This is not about fancy food fare. This salad accompanies almost any ‘inihaw” (grilled) dish that might be served during a fiesta or in my case, any gatherings at home. Easy to put together and never fails to liven up a table of food fare. I think this dish paved the way to my loving eggplants.
This month’s KCC challenge (hosted by Elizabeth and Dudut) was to feature a regional “Fiesta” specialty of one’s province. I grew up in Quezon City and fiestas I only came to know (and sometimes attend) when I am a grown up already. But this refreshing ensalada (salad) is almost always present during parties thrown at home so I think it should count as the family specialty.
Ensaladang Talong
The roasted flavor of the eggplant is the key that gives this dish a hint of the “ihaw” or charred flavor while the sili (chili) gives it a nice kick.
What you need:
- 2 tbsps. shallots, thinly sliced
- 1 salad tomato, diced
- 1 small green or red bell pepper
- 1 green finger chili (siling pangsigang), seed, deveined and chopped
- 3 eggplants (about 150g. / pc)
- ½ tsp salt
- ¼ tsp ground pepper
What you do:
- Roast the eggplants directly over an open fire until charred or in the oven. Allow to cool. Peel the eggplants and discard stems.
- Cut the peeled eggplants into small chunks. Season with salt and pepper.
- Mix all other ingredients together and drizzle with Coconut Vinaigrette.
- Garnish with the remaining portions of the bell peppers and green finger chili.
Coconut Vinaigrette
What you need:
- 1/8 cup coconut cream
- 1 gm. ginger, peeled and minced.
- ½ green finger chili, seed, deveined and chopped
- 1 tbsp vinegar (I used sukang niyog)
- salt and pepper to taste
What you do:
- Combine coconut cream, ginger, green finger, chili and vinegar in a bowl. Stir well.
- Season with salt and pepper. Stir well. Taste and adjust seasoning. Stir again.
Hong Kong Eats
May 5, 2012 § 1 Comment
Trips with the family always involve a lot of eating. On our (not so) recent trip to Hong Kong, it was with no surprise that the entire itinerary focused on where to eat. A few good ones picked out from a 2-page list and reservations made even before we boarded. Yes, if there is such a thing as food geeks, that’s us.
First stop was Hutong in Tsim Sha Tsui. The restaurant was set out to impress not only in the food department. It starts with a stylish old China interior and a view to die for from the 28th floor overlooking Victoria Harbor and the Hong Kong skyline. The dim interior creates drama and intends to highlight the city’s colorfully lit nightscape, particularly the nightly light show at 8pm. So try to get a table by the window for the best view.
Clockwise: Floor to ceiling windows overlooking the harbor / dim interior, Cod fish tossed with fermented bean and chilies, Red Lantern, various desserts, the light show, Crispy De-boned Lamb Ribs
Specializing in traditional northern Chinese cuisine, the food is can be quite spicy. Make sure to order the Crispy De-boned Lamb Ribs, it is their house specialty and never disappoints. Its crispness resembles that of Peking duck skin and the meat slow-cooked to tenderness but still retaining the flavor of lamb. If you can handle the heat, their Red Lantern is a must try. Crispy chicken with Sichuan pepper bursts with great flavor and intense heat if you bite into the chilies. Even without touching the chilies, I can only eat so much. Another favorite is the Cod fish tossed with fermented bean and chilies.
Clockwise: Grilled Zucchini, Green Tea Banana Cake, the sushi counter, Hamachi Roll, Tuna Tartare with Miso, Grilled Chicken Wings
A friend invited for dinner at a different time I was in Hong Kong, we met at the Mandarin for drinks and walked over to The Landmark for what she said would be Japanese tapas. Given the prestigious address, I knew that it wasn’t going to be a cramped sushi bar but the interior still blew me away. Zuma has 2 levels with a grand spiral staircase that greets as one step out of the elevator. We took a table at the terrace where a garden surrounds. Memorable dishes include Seared Beef with a Yuzu-Ponzu dressing, Tuna Tartare with Miso, a Chicken Yakitori and a very yummy Green Tea Banana Cake with coconut ice cream. Authentic Japanese cuisine prepared non-traditionally and served Izakaya style – small dishes designed for sharing. Zuma boasts of a pretty good selection with a robota grill and a sushi counter. Second time around with the family registers the same satisfaction if not better.
Clockwise: Flan con Dulce de Leche, Provoleta Cheese with Olive Oil and Herbs, Grilled Beef Tenderloin Steak (250g), the street of Soho in Central.
Steak – is always on our radar. Our usual haunt is Morton of Chicago but this time around, we felt like a change. At the heart of SOHO in Central is a place where carnivores find pleasure. La Pampas specializes in Argentinean cuisine, particularly in steaks and grilled meats. Flown fresh from Argentina, the organic beef is tender and tasty. Other Argentinean dishes worth ordering from their menu include sausages, chorizo, and cheeses. And speaking of cheese, their Provoleta cheese with olive oil and herbs is a delightful starter and the Flan con Dulce de Leche, a divine cap to the scrumptious meal.
Clockwise: Noodle and congee counter, stylish interior, my fish congee, Stir-fried Chinese Broccoli, The chef behind the counter, fried Beef Noodle.
With the excessive feasting, it is just proper to take a rest and end with some congee. Tasty Congee and Noodle Wanton Shop should be your last stop to somewhat clean the system. Before taking the train to the airport, spare some time to go to the IFC Mall for some really good congee or noodles on level 3. If you prefer to head straight to the airport, head out to the food court of Departure east hall of the Hong Kong International Airport. This one Michelin star restaurant definitely does not disappoint. So good, it even got listed on the premier edition of the Miele Guide. So even if you don’t really need to “cleanse”, head out to one of their establishments for some “tasty” comfort food. Outside of their congee, we loved their Fried Beef Noodle, which we spotted from the table beside us. Dimsums and wantons are excellent too.
Zuma Levels 5 & 6, The Landmark 15 Queen’s Road, Central. HK (852) 3657-6388 (reservations recommended) Hutong 1 Peking Road, 28th Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK (852) 3428-8342 (reservations a must) Tasty Congee & Noodle Wanton Shop Shop 3016 Podium 3, IFC Mall 8 Finance Street, Central, HK (852) 2295-0101 / 2295-0505 (reservations recommended) La Pampas G/F 32 B & C, Staunton Street, SOHO, Central (852) 2868-6959 (reservations a must)French Toast
April 16, 2012 § 5 Comments
I read somewhere that when you have old bread, make French toast.
I was away for Easter break. We hopped around the nearby islands, feasted on wonderful food but for the most part, it was lounging at the beach or on a hammock near our cottage with a good book… a perfect getaway from the busy schedule. A much needed rest, truth to tell. I hope yours was as restful as mine.
So I come home and there it was on the fridge, pitifully staring back at me. “French Toast time”, my thought balloon goes. Not that I wait for bread to go stale but days old bread make a lovely French Toast. I like mine a bit crisp on the edges but still soft and creamy in the middle. The trick is let the bread soak for a minute or 2 and cook it with a fair amount of hot oil. Adding sugar to the mixture will crisp up those edges.
I like using thickly sliced loaf breads. I am currently loving the Premium Bread from BreadTalk but baguette or Jipan’s Monroe bread works well too.
Adapted from Molly Wizenberg’s book, A Homemade Life, Burg’s French Toast is by far, the best French Toast I had ever made. So addictive I have become, I find every opportunity to make them. Served hot with butter and Maple syrup – what a way to start the day.
On occasion, I’d sub the maple with fruit jams. Equally as heavenly.
Where to Eat in Macau: Wong Chi Kei Congee & Noodle
March 29, 2012 § Leave a comment
Famous for their hand-made noodles, we searched for it and found it at the left side, sitting opposite McDonald’s as you enter Senado Square.
Many, my dad included, claim that they make the best Cantonese noodles in Macau.
Dark wooden interior make up what seemed like a tiny noodle shop until you walk in and realize that it has a mezzanine and a 2nd floor.
The menu was extensive but most of us went for the Wanton Noodle Soup while my brother decided to go for the one with Roasted Duck.
The bowls arrives from a dumb-waiter with noodles and in our case, wanton sans the soup. The waiter adds into the bowl piping hot soup from a big pot before serving. That simple.
The soup and the wanton were excellent; the hero however is the noodle. Cantonese noodles were (obviously) originally from Canton and became popular in the 1920s. Traditional noodles were made by hand using a long bamboo stick, producing some very smooth, springy noodles that yield a good bite.
Wong Chi Kei’s noodles deliver the same springy noodles as its founder started his business in Guangzhou and Dongguan before he moved his shop to Macau. This noodle shop has made customers happy with its noodles since 1946 and the family had a satisfying lunch of noodles after a good work-out walking to and from the Ruins of St. Paul’s with a bit of window shopping on the side.
A simple noodle or congee dish was the best neutralizer to the scrumptious Macanese dinner we had the night before.
Wong Chi Kei Congee & Noodle
Macau Old Shop: Rua Cinco de Outubro, No. 51 r/c Tel: +853-2892-2271 Macau Main shop: Largo do Senado, No. 17 Tel: +853-2833-1313
Storm In My Kitchen 